Buzz kill Thought this was the easy and fun but please tell me I don’t have to lower the oil pan to get the pickup tube out. Tighten the crap out of it and make sure the flats of the flare fitting are parallel to the pulley face. Once your happy everything fits, do the final mounting of the alternator bracket, alternator, new top tensioner and lower pulley assy. Do some of this: We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. The following errors occurred with your submission. Stock covers fit right on, looks pretty clean.
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Lots of people get by without aligning it, but I had the sets of feeler gauges already so it only added a few minutes of work.
Send a private message to nenji Send a private message to realcanuk. I just made up a bracket to lower the clamp holding the harness to the block, also moved the ground lug to the corner oil pan bolt since the new pulley assy.
Ecs 15 V33 011096
Thanks for the reminder. Send a private message to sevinn.
Yeah there’s a Melling video that shows how to install the pump. Below are the 4 bolts I loosened. Last edited by sevinn; at I believe these bosses only need trimming back on some or later C6s Also trim this boss off which is not shown on the instructions: Watched that Mellings video and he just slaps the thing on and centers it but the “better” way is disassemble the pump, set clearance between crank drive and rotor and rotor and mount before tightening the pump down.
Focus on safety, stock look, cost, no BAP overdrives, ces push-ons, etc.
ECS > GCT-M2/ (VA)
I’ll take all the important stuff and stick it in the 1st 5 posts, Hopefully I can get some help and give some help to the next guy. First start and Idle: Do some of this: The screws are soft, doubt even a grade 8. Originally Posted by schpenxel. After drilling the heads off the screws I did a ghetto mod on the nut and reinstalled the timing cover bracket with some Grade 10 8mm x 1. Find More Posts by nenji Now it’s clean the shop, paint a few brackets and get re-organized for another round tomorrow.
And some of that new springs kit: Thread Tools Show Printable Version.
Swagelok makes these nice stainless adapters. The main blower drive tensioner piggybacks off this same bracket so this mount takes a lot of load and has to be right.
Ecs 15 V33 011012
The HD SC tensioner bracket then gets mounted to that timing cover bracket. Lengths shown below on the callout pic are correct length for mounting to the washer tank bolt. Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts. The mounting plate shown 15-v3 the left attaches to the timing cover with 2 “custom” allen caps to the timing cover Circled in Yellow. I’m old and slow and this is a part time project.
Send a private message to schpenxel. The hi pressure line on the power steering pump gets replaced with an 8an hose. The 6 rib side of the conversion pulley drives the power steering pump and alternator.
Find More Posts by schpenxel. Not sure why custom bolts are used but looks like the head thickness of the cap screws were cut down to clear something so the depth of wrench going into the screw is minimal. Mount Lower Flip drive pully assy, cut off old idler mount from your alternator backet using your weapon of choice, then check for clearance.
Kinda dead in the water until I get the HB, hoping ECS has one and I can drive down there tomorrow and pick one up along with the right size belt. Why it’s hex and not torx, why they are such thin heads and why so soft is a mystery.